We left the guesthouse at 08:30. The skies were gray. Our goal was to get to Khorog, the administrative capital of the GBAO region. The driver forgot his phone charger at the guesthouse and was stopped on the way back by the Tajik police. “Corruption!” Taalay said afterwards. He didn’t want to elaborate any further. It was a pretty hefty price for forgetting a charger.
The road basically hugged the Panj River. Occasionally, we would see glimpses of life in Afghanistan: animals slowly walking, an Afghan flag waving, a motorbike with three people driving on a dirt road.
After stopping for lunch, we kept driving. The drizzle started to become heavier. Then we stopped. It was around 13:40.
A massive landslide covered the road. Lines of trucks on either side lined up, eagerly waiting. Men stood on top of the rock mound and a tractor waited nearby. But the steady rain and a constant view of rocks moving from way up the mountain side made it impossible for the tractor to do its work.
We waited for two hours, moving the car back and forth trying to get information and stay away from potentially more rock slides. But with the rocks visibility still coming down, we gave up and held out at Homestay мехмонхона located nearby in Deh. We got in the homestay at 16:30. Dinner was ready by 17:00.
Our beds were large cushions and extremely heavy blankets. The cost for a place to sleep and two meals cost 100TJS ($11.78) for the both of us.
Khorog was still three hours away. Good thing we got the flexible option on our plane tickets out of Osh. We called it a night at 20:00.
- Number of kilometers driven: 122
- Number of checkpoints: 1
- Number of roadblocks: 1
- Number of bribes: 1